Moscow 

Through the Stereoscope 



UNDERWOOD 

& 

UNDERWOOD 

New York and London 





































M oscow 


A Part of Underwood & Underwood’s 
Stereoscopic Tour Through 
Russia 

PERSONALLY CONDUCTED BY 
ajA < 0 >f\ 

M? Sr EMERY 

AUTHOR OF “HOW TO ENJOY PICTURES ” 



PUBLISHED BY 


UNDERWOOD & UNDERWOOD 


NEW YORK 
OTTAWA, KAN. 


LONDON 
TORONTO, CAN 


THE LIBRARY ®F 
CONGRESS, 
Two Cop*£8 Receive* 

MAY. 3 1902 

Copyright entry 
I'Tuftv-i 4 — I ^ 0 7!»" 
class'^ XXc. No. 

i5-/?V 

COPY B. 


Copyright, 1902, by 
UNDERWOOD & UNDERWOOD 
New York and London 
[Entered at Stationers’ Hall] 


Stereographs copyrighted in the United States 
and foreign countries 


Map System 

Patented in the United States, August 21, 1900 
Patented in Great Britain, March 22, 1900 
Patented in France, March 26, 1900. S. G. D. G. 
Switzerland, -j- Patent Number 21,211 
Patents applied for in other countries 
* ® • » » ». 


Albrights reserved 









RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


21 


A WORD BEFORE STARTING. 

Many years ago, when tea was a rare luxury, an old 
sea-captain sent to a friend a small parcel of precious 
Oolong, thinking to give great pleasure. But the thanks 
of the recipient had a doubtful ring, so the captain asked 
how the family had enjoyed the gift. 

“ Well, you see, we weren’t quite sure how to cook 
it,” was the apologetic confession; “ but we boiled it 
tender and ate it for greens. It’s a curious taste, isn’t it ? ” 

We are all likely to make similar mistakes in our use 
—and, consequently, in our valuation—of stereographs. 
In order, therefore, to get from our Russian tour all the 
pleasure and profit it can give, let us take a few minutes 
in preparation for the journey, and see:— 

a. What is a stereograph? 

b. How stereographs should be used. 

What is a Stereograph ? 

There is a fundamental difference between an or¬ 
dinary photograph and a stereograph. The photograph 
is taken by means of a single lens-opening in the camera. 
It shows a building, for instance, exactly as we should see 
the same building with one eye closed. But in actual 
vision we use two eyes; the retina of the right eye re¬ 
ceives one impression, the retina of the left eye receives 
another impression, not the exact duplicate of the first; 
our consciousness combines the two impressions into one; 


22 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


what we practically “ see ” is a composite of the two 
retinal impressions. 

It is easy to make a simple, experimental test of the 
difference between one’s impressions of the form of a solid 
object received by the two eyes. Hold your right hand 
straight out at arm’s length in front of you, the palm 
toward the left, the back of the hand toward the right. 
Close the left eye and look at the hand. You see almost 
nothing of the palm, but you do see something of the 
surface of the back of the hand. Hold the arm in exactly 
the same position; close the right eye and look with the 
left only. Now you see little or nothing of the back of 
the hand, but a part of the palm is visible. Now look with 
both eyes, as usual. You see a part of the back of the 
hand and a part of the palm as well; in fact, you see part 
way around the hand. That is to say, you “ see ” a com¬ 
posite of the varying reports sent in to the brain by. the 
two eyes, and the result is that the hand looks solid and 
substantial. It seems to occupy space in three directions, 
height, width and thickness. 

A single photograph of a hand at the distance and 
in the position indicated above would not give precisely 
this effect of solidity, of space-occupancy, of tangible 
reality. The photographic camera has only one eye. 
Just as a one-eyed man becomes accustomed to his lim¬ 
itations, and learns to piece out his incomplete vision 
with the help of memory and comparison of other ex¬ 
periences, guessing at solidity on the hint of suggestive 
shadows here and there, which could, he feels sure, be 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


23 


caused only by certain changes in the direction of the 
surface of a thing, so we find ordinary photographs, 
in spite of their one-eyed vision, immensely suggestive 
of the experiences of direct vision. Photographs are 
good things. 

But stereographs are far better whenever the subject 
under consideration is one where we wish to experience 
the sensation of actually looking at the things themselves. 
For what we have in a stereograph of any given scene 
is a presentation to each eye, separately, of just what that 
eye would see when the observer occupied one given 
standpoint. The differences between the observations of 
the two eyes, one seeing a little farther around on the 
right side of things, the other seeing farther around their 
left side, can be partially discovered by a careful com¬ 
parison of the two parts of any particular stereograph 
in which some object in the foreground is outlined against 
some object in the background; but, if we thus examine 
one of the stereographs, merely holding it in the hand 
and looking at its complementary parts as we would look 
at two photographs pasted on one card, and suppose that 
we are getting the good of the stereograph, we are mak¬ 
ing the old mistake of treating tea leaves like spinach. 
The use of the stereoscope is necessary in order that we 
may receive at the same time the two overlapping im¬ 
pressions through the two eyes, and so once more get the 
effect of three dimensions in space,—height, width, thick¬ 
ness or depth. 

Try an experiment with one of these Russian stereo- 


24 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


graphs, for example, No. 90, “ The Birth of Jesus;— 
Vladimir Cathedral, Kief.” First, take a look at the 
card, as you hold it in your hand. Yes, it seems at first 
as if the two prints were absolutely alike. But notice the 
halo about the head of the Virgin Mother. In the left 
print there is slight separation between this halo and the 
marble capital to the left. In the right-hand print you 
notice twice the interval between the halo and the capital. 
This shows that the picture on the right was taken by a 
camera-lens set farther to the right. 

It would seem as if such small variations could make 
little difference. But place the stereograph in the sliding- 
rack of the stereoscope and, adjusting its distance accord¬ 
ing to your own eyesight, look out through the lenses. 

Is it not like magic,—the way in which you see now 
the real cathedral, with that cavernous distance in beyond 
•the holy screen? Now you see that the painting of the 
birth of Jesus, instead of being the central panel in a row 
of three (as it at first looked to be), is away back, behind 
the screen; you are seeing it at a respectful, reverential 
distance, through an opening in the sacred portal. 

The two prints, while held in hand, were excellent 
photographs, but, while viewed with the naked eye, they 
showed us only height and width, leaving us to infer the 
dimension of depth as best we could,—and we made poor 
work of it! They entirely declined to give us any ade¬ 
quate impression of depth. This impression the stere¬ 
oscope has supplied by making for us a “ composite ” of 
the slightly varying messages received by our two eyes. 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


25 


The stereoscope does this. It does still more. 

When the stereograph, in its sliding-rack, is brought 
to the right position to suit individual eyesight and is 
properly seen through the obliquely set stereoscopic 
lenses, the impression made on the eyes by any given de¬ 
tail is that of the full-size object at the full, actual dis¬ 
tance. For instance, suppose a stereograph shows a man 
who was actually thirty feet away from the camera at 
the moment of exposure. His image exists on the print 
only a fraction of an inch high. But, when that tiny 
image, seen through the stereoscopic lens at the distance of 
a few inches, delivers its message to the eyes, it has the 
effect of the very message the eyes would receive from 
the full-size man at the thirty-foot distance. The possi¬ 
bility of this correspondence of impressions made by a 
large object at a long distance and a small object at a 
short distance is something readily observed. A common 
letter-envelope, held up-at arm’s length, may easily hide 
from view a picture twelve times its size on the wall of 
the room. It may even fill the same focal angle as a 
whole building at a still greater distance outside the win¬ 
dow. In the case of our stereographs, the fact is that a 
printed figure a fraction of an inch high, a few inches 
distant, fills the same space in the eye as a figure five or 
six feet tall at the distance of the real man from the 
operator’s camera at the moment of taking the negative. 
The result of the fact is that when we look through the 
lenses of the stereoscope we practically look also through 
the stereograph as if it were a transparent screen , an^ 


26 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


we see the real objects, full-size, as far distant from us as 
they were from the camera when the stereograph was 
taken. 

There are some people to whom it appears at first 
that only miniatures of objects are shown in the stereo¬ 
scope. This is due mainly to their constant remembrance 
of the small card a few inches from their eyes. They 
modify what they might see by what they think they 
ought to see. If such people will take note for a time 
of the fact that they see nothing on the surface of the 
photographic prints so close to their eyes, that they see 
everything back of these prints as actually as if they were 
looking through transparent screens or windows, then 
they may get impressions of objects or places in the 
stereoscope as large as they would if looking at the orig¬ 
inal scene through windows of the same size and at the 
same distance. 

Stereographs, then, can give us (color only excepted) 
the very same visual impressions that we should receive 
in the presence of the actual things. 

Moreover, a stereograph, properly seen through the 
stereoscope, takes us into the presence of a certain scene 
in a sense fairly analogous to that in which the telephone 
brings a friend close to us. The intermediate processes 
could be traced if we had space, making a most interesting 
study. Of course, in the telephone a friend’s body is not 
brought to us; nevertheless we get a definite sense that he, 
his real self, is brought near us. Not only is he near for 
all purposes of communication through the ear, but we 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


27 


feel that we are in his very presence. Our feelings are, 
our experience is, not that we are in the presence of a 
telephone, which gives out certain articulate sounds, but 
in the presence of a human soul. 

Now it is in an analogous way that we may feel that 
we have been transported to the distant place which is rep¬ 
resented to us in the stereoscope. Our material body is 
in our own chair at home, but our thinking, feeling self, 
our real self, is in the presence of a place in Russia. The 
reason why our experience is that a person comes to us 
in the telephone while we go to the place in the stere¬ 
oscope is this—What we see, more than anything else, 
gives us our sense of location. When we use the tele¬ 
phone we see a room about us, and, consequently, we get 
a distinct sense of our location there. But the testimony 
of our ear at the telephone is that our friend is close to 
us; we can’t disregard this any more than we can dis¬ 
regard the testimony of our eyes. His voice sounds as if 
he were near, and that is sufficient to make us feel as if 
he were near. But since, in fixing our own location, what 
we see is more important than what we hear, our expe¬ 
rience is that we stay in our room, and our friend comes 
near to us there. When we use the stereoscope, on the 
other hand, the hood about our eyes shuts our room away 
from us, shuts out the America or England that may 
be about us, and shuts us in with the hill or the city or 
the people standing out behind the stereoscopic card. If 
now we know by the help of maps where on the earth’s 
surface this hill or city or group of people is located, then 


28 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


we may have a distinct sense of our own location there. 
The conditions are that we shall look intently, and look 
with some thought not only of the location of what is 
before us, but also of what we know (from the study 
of the maps) must be on our right and left or behind us. 

The best evidence that we do get such an experience 
when we use stereoscopic views properly, is the fact that, 
ever afterwards, we find ourselves going back in memory 
over mountains or seas to the place in the distant country 
where the real scene is located, much more than to the 
room in America or England where we saw the stere¬ 
oscopic scene. After all, to get such an experience by 
means of the stereoscope is little, if any, more extraor¬ 
dinary, when we think of it, than our experience in con¬ 
nection with the telephone. 

Now, whenever we do get this sense of location by 
the stereoscope it means that we have gained not merely 
accurate visual impressions of certain places in Russia, 
such as we should get if we went there in body, but also 
part of the very same feelings we should experience there. 
The only difference between the feelings gotten in the 
one case and the other is a difference of quantity or in¬ 
tensity, not a difference of kind. Therefore, the expe¬ 
riences we may gain through the stereoscope are not to 
be considered as mere make-believe experiences of being 
in distant places in Russia,—not substitutes for real ex¬ 
periences there. The representations of parts of Russia 
which are to be before us in the stereoscope will be sub¬ 
stitutes for the real Russia, but the feelings they may stir 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 29 

in us, as well as the visual impressions they may give us, 
are of the very same warp and woof as those gotten by 
going to Russia in the body. 

In this beginning of a new century we hear much 
about modern advances in the solution of the problem of 
transportation. Electric railways, automobiles,—the out¬ 
look toward possible future developments is something 
marvelous. But our possession which most resembles the 
magic travelling-carpet of Aladdin in the old story is the 
stereoscope. 

Nobody in these days needs argument for the desira¬ 
bility of travel. We travel to “ see things,” to enlarge our 
personal experience of the world and its people, to gather 
in materials for thought and for growth in thought, and 
to increase our immediate and prospective resources of 
happiness. “ Culture,” says Miss Blow in her Study of 
Dante, “ is the process by which the individual reproduces 
in himself the experience of the race.” 

The journey we are about to take, by the help of the 
stereoscope, through the heart of Russia, is one which can 
give us stores of delightful memories; at the same time it 
can—if we choose—be the occasion and incentive of a 
long course of reading and study. All we already know 
of Russian history,* politics, literature and social life 
will naturally make the sights we see more full of mean¬ 
ing and charm. On the other hand, every place we 
see in the land of the Czar, as we cross it from the 
Baltic to the Black Sea, will increase our healthy hunger 


* A brief summary of Russian history is given onjpage 7 for convenient reference. 



3° 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


for a still fuller outlook into this world of ours and into 
the lives of the people, so like us, so unlike us, who share 
with ourselves the enjoyments and the responsibilities 
of being alive today. 

How to Use Stereographs. 

a. Experiment with the sliding-rack which holds 
the stereograph until you find the distance that suits the 
focus of your own eyes. This distance varies greatly 
with different people. 

b. Have a strong, steady light on the stereograph. 
This is often best obtainable by sitting with the back 
towards window or lamp, letting the light fall over one’s 
shoulder on the face of the stereograph. 

c. Hold the stereoscope with the hood close against 
the forehead and temples, shutting off entirely all im¬ 
mediate surroundings. The less you are conscious of 
things close about you, the more strong will be your feel¬ 
ing of actual presence in the scenes you are studying. 

d. First, read the statements in regard to the loca¬ 
tion on the appropriate maps, of a place you are about 
to see, so as to have already in mind, when you look at a 
given view, just where you are and what is before you. 
After looking at the scene for the purpose of getting your 
location and the points of the compass clear, then read the 
explanatory comments on it. You will like to read por¬ 
tions of the text again after once looking at the stereo¬ 
graph, and then return to the view. Repeated returns 
to the text may be desirable, where there are many details 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


31 


to be discovered. But read through once the text that 
bears on the location of each stereograph before taking 
up the stereograph in question; in this way you will know 
just where you are, and the feeling of actual presence on 
the ground will be much more real and satisfactory. On 
the maps you will find given the exact location of each 
successive standpoint (at the apex of the red V in each 
case) and the exact range of the view obtained from that 
standpoint (shown in each case by the space included 
between the spreading arms of the same V). The map 
system is admirably clear and satisfactory, giving an 
accurate idea of the progress of the journey, and really 
making one feel, after a little, quite at home among the 
streets of St. Petersburg and Moscow. 

e. Go slowly. Tourists are often reproached for 
their nervously hurried and superficial ways of glancing 
at sights in foreign lands. Travel by means of stereo¬ 
graphs encourages leisurely and thoughtful enjoyment 
of whatever is worth enjoying. You may linger as long 
a„ you like in any particularly interesting spot, without 
fear of being left behind by train or steamboat. Indeed, 
you may return to the same spot as many times as you 
like, without any thought of repeated expense! Herein 
lies one of the chief delights of Russia-in-stereographs,— 
its easy accessibility. Edward Everett Hale, who has a 
genius for common sense, said once in a chapter of advice 
on how to travel:— 

“Above all, ^ see twice whatever is worth seeing. 

Do not forget this rule—we remember what we see 


32 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


twice. ... At Malines—what we call Mechlin— 
our train stopped nearly an hour. At the station a 
crowd of guides were shouting that there was time to 

go and see Rubens’ picture of -, at the church 

of-. This seemed to us a droll contrast to the 

cry at our stations, * Fifteen minutes for refresh¬ 
ments ! ’ It offered such aesthetic refreshment in the 
place of carnal oysters that, purely for frolic, we went 
to see. We were hurried across some sort of square 
into the church, saw the picture, admired it, came 
away, and forgot it—clear and clean forgot it! . . . 

I do not know what it was about any more than you 
do. But if I had gone to that church the next day, 
and seen it again, I should have fixed it forever on 
my memory.” 

We all know how great is the pleasure of recalling 
before the mind a eye places or things that have once filled 
us with wonder and admiration. Stereographs make it 
easily possible to call up such scenes over and over again, 
not only to the mind’s eye, but actually to our corporeal 
eyes, giving us precisely the same sensations as at first, 
only enriched and made fuller of meaning by virtue of 
the thinking we have done meanwhile. We all know 
books that we have read over and over, seeing in them 
each time more than we saw before, because we have 
taken to them each time a richer mind to do the reading. 
So repeated visits to the same place often surprise us 
with revelations of interesting and significant things 
quite overlooked in a first visit. And Russia is well worth 
such re-visiting. 




^~^UR complete Russian “ Tour ” 
consists of one hundred original 
stereographs of the more important places 
in Russia, arranged in the same order a 
tourist might visit them. M. S. Emery- 
acts as a personal guide in an accompany¬ 
ing book of over two hundred pages. 
In this book are also given ten maps ol 
our new patented system, specially devised 
for the purpose of showing the route and 
definitely locating the stereographs. Ed¬ 
ucators say that by the proper use ol 
stereographs, with these maps, people may 
get genuine experiences of travel. 



124 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


MOSCOW. 

St. Petersburg and its environs are full of interest, so full 
that no one wants to tear himself away but for knowing that other 
Russian cities have their own charms of their own kinds. But 
we can have no adequate idea of Russia until we visit the old 
capital at Moscow, four hundred miles to the south-east. In St. 
Petersburg everything is comparatively new, since its existence 
as a city goes back but two hundred years. In Moscow what¬ 
ever is modern is at the same time overhung by traditions of 
strange, barbaric peoples who centuries ago fought over the 
possession of the town, and of old-time rulers whose sway was 
as relentless and bloody as that of the kings of the old Hebrew 
stories. 

Before the building of railroads, comparatively few foreign¬ 
ers had travelled in Russia. European ideas of the country were 
generally hazy, but the haze was a golden one. People had 
heard of the splendors of court life under Anne, Elizabeth and 
Catherine II, and “ Muscovy,” a popular name for the imperial 
dominions, was vaguely regarded as a land of fabulous distances 
and fabulous riches. When Napoleon in 1812 led the French 
armies up toward Moscow, the soldiers in imagination saw them¬ 
selves returning home rich with the rifled store of an Arabian 
Night’s treasure-house. No wonder their hearts beat high as 
they drew near the city they had heard of all their lives as a 
centre of semi-Oriental wealth and luxury! We are to see 
Moscow also. 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


125 


A word first about the maps. We shall use two at Moscow, 
a general map of Moscow and a map of the Kremlin or central 
part of the city. A quick survey of the general map gives a 
few of the main features of Moscow. The Moskwa river comes 
from the west and winds in great curves toward the east and 
south. The Kremlin is situated just north of the second up¬ 
ward bend, and from this point streets extend outward in all 
directions like spokes in a wheel, while other streets circle about 
the Kremlin in concentric rings. Away down in the lower left- 
hand corner of the map are the Sparrow Hills. There we find 
a circle in red enclosing the number 47, also in red. From a 
point near this circle two red lines branch out, extending over the 
city toward the north-east. We are to take our stand first at that 
point and look out over that section of Moscow which lies between 
the two lines. 

47. From the Sparrow Hills: Napoleon’s First View of 
Moscow. 

We can trace a part of the very route taken by the French 
that disastrous autumn of 1812. It was here, on the crest of the 
rolling-ground known as the Sparrow Hills, that the invaders 
caught the first glimpse of the city of their dreams. Domes 
and towers and spires and roofs were spread out much as we 
see them now, every dome and roof gilded or silvered or painted 
in brilliant colors, red and green and blue, like some gorgeous 
picture-book. 

“All this is yours!” exclaimed Napoleon. And the soldiers 
took up the shout of “ Moscow ! Moscow ! ” Poor fellows! Very 
few of them lived to see Christmas Day. 


126 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


Can you make out at the extreme right a tall building with 
a lofty dome standing out against the sky? That, at least, was 
not here in 1812; it is the great Temple of Our Saviour, built 
afterwards to commemorate the expulsion of Napoleon’s army. 
We shall find its high roof, by-and-by, a good vantage-point for 
our own observations. Its location on our general map is a littlfe 
south-west of the Kremlin. 

But our own invasion is a peaceful one; all we want of 
Moscow just at present is an opportunity to wander about the 
old streets and see the people come and go about their own affairs. 
We will go down to the foot of the hill, cross that river, the 
Moskwa, which we see glimmering through the trees, and then 
ride on along the country road among tho$e vari-colored fields 
of grass and grain. We shall pass close by that convent straight 
ahead, with the tall tower and the dome-capped buildings sur¬ 
rounded by the high, white wall; and just beyond the convent 
we shall find the Moscow suburbs. 

48. Novo Devitchi Convent, near Moscow. 

Here we are almost ; t the convent gates. They told us in 
St. Petersburg that Moscow is the place to see curious, bulb¬ 
like domes, and, sure enough, here they are. Fifteen domes in 
this one group of buildings,—it is not a bad beginning. See how 
strange their form is. The dome of St. Isaac’s (Stereograph 
18, St. Petersburg) was built during the present century by a 
French architect, and in its proportions and contour is like 
fine domes in other countries. But these odd, onion-shaped 
bubbles, set on drums so tall as to amount to cylindric towers,— 
how strange they are! They remind us of pictures we have 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


127 


seen of Chinese Tartary; and no wonder they do. We know 
that a horde of Tartars possessed the land all about here for 
three hundred years (from the middle of the thirteenth to the 
middle of the sixteenth century), and their outlandish modes 
of architecture remain to tell the tale. Not but that the Russians 
hated the Tartar conquerors in vigorous mediaeval fashion. But, 
after all, whatever they felt toward the Tartars, the Oriental 
rage for bulbous domes did please the childlike Muscovites, and 
they kept up this way of building long after they were free to 
build in any style they liked. 

Look at that wall with the elaborate coping and at the low, 
castellated towers set in at intervals! They look as if they were 
intended for military defence once upon a time. What strange, 
upstart, modern interlopers they must consider this telegraph 
line that extends along the road, and the street lamps too. 
Moscow is a place where things ancient and modern are often 
queerly jumbled together. 

The Novo Devitchi (New Maiden’s) Convent has stood here 
ever since 1524. The Poles once burned several of the build¬ 
ings, but these were restored by Michael, the first Czar of the 
house of Romanoff. The place has often been a haven of refuge 
for women during stormy times in the great world outside. Peter 
the Great sent his brilliant and ambitious sister Sophia here 
much against her will, near the end of the seventeenth century, 
when she insisted on being too conspicuous a factor in the 
government. While he was building St. Petersburg up yonder 
on the Neva, she was a nun, saying prayers in the chapel here 
instead of interfering with politics. It would be interesting 
to know what she really thought about the whole matter, while 


128 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


she walked about the convent garden, or gave imperious orders 
to the meek, little novices. 

Moscow itself is calling us, and we must push on past the 
convent, through the outlying streets of the rambling city. The 
magnificent Temple of Our Saviour is our first objective point. 
From there we can get the best general view of the Kremlin, 
our second objective point. 

49. Temple of Our Saviour, Moscow. 

Still more domes! This is not an old church; it was begun 
only about sixty years ago by Nicholas I, to commemorate the 
deliverance of Holy Moscow from the French, but its style was 
very wisely made to harmonize with the general effect of the 
other Moscow churches. It is built of native stone, and is really 
enormously large, though the size does not perhaps impress us 
at first sight. They say seven thousand people can attend mass 
here at one time. The older churches in the city (and there are 
perhaps six hundred of them) almost never show any sculptured 
decorations. In fact, it has been understood to be contrary to the 
canons of the Russian Church to use high-relief sculpture in 
connection with religious structures; but the rule must be relax¬ 
ing, for the French architect of St. Isaac’s in St. Petersburg 
(Stereograph 18) used sculptures freely, wherever he wanted 
them for decorative purposes, and here on this Temple we find 
Russian artists doing essentially the same thing,—with good 
effect, too. That continuous band or frieze of sculptured figures, 
extending around the building between the upper and lower 
windows, certainly contributes a great deal towards the beauty 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


129 


of the whole. The construction of this church out of stone is an 
exceptional thing for Moscow. This region has little building- 
stone of its own, and brick and wood are much more commonly 
used, often overlaid with stucco. These curved gables, pinched 
in sharply at the line of the ridge-pole, are constructive forms 
that Russia delights to use; and the long, plain, easily traceable 
vertical lines of the principal wall supports are characteristically 
Russian, too. 

The domes of this church are literally covered with gold; 
sheets of actual gold-leaf were applied to their entire surface, 
and the gilding alone cost three-quarters of a million dol¬ 
lars. When they set out to do a thing in Russia, they do it. 
The scenes from the Bible and the New Testament, which cover 
the walls of the temple, were painted by the celebrated Russian 
painters Makovsky, Semiravsky, Prianishnikoff, Repin and 
others. The window frames are made of bronze, each frame 
weighing two-and-a-half tons. The image of the God of Sabaoth 
on the inside of the dome is probably the largest figure ever 
painted—the stretch of arms, from point to point, is forty-nine 
feet. The figure of Jesus is seven feet in height. 

That must be a girls’ boarding-school out for a walk. Perhaps 
the vigilant chaperone is taking her flock home from some service 
in the church. Young girls are always attractive, and it would 
be interesting to see these more closely if we could. All the 
world was reading a few years ago the school-girl diary of Marie 
Bashkirtseff, the beautiful and gifted Russian artist who did such 
good work in Paris and died so young. Is there another Marie 
here, maybe, dreaming ambitious dreams of art and fame, falling 


130 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


in love and falling out again, speculating about life and death 
and immortality, and frankly admiring her own image in the 
bed-room mirror? 

The best place from which to get general views of the city, 
including our view of the Kremlin as a whole, is that railed-in 
space on the top of the main building, around the base of the 
dome. We will go up there for our outlook after we have visited 
the inside of the church. 

50. The Altar, Temple of Our Saviour, Moscow. 

Here again, as in the Peter and Paul Cathedral at St 
Petersburg (Stereograph 27), we see no statues of sacred per 
sonages, but always pictures instead. Their subjects are much 
like those in the Latin (Roman Catholic) churches with which 
we are familiar; saints, martyrs, patriarchs and prophets. Some 
of these paintings about the high altar are by Verestschagin, 
the famous Russian, several of whose works were exhibited in 
America a few years ago and made a great impression on the 
public. 

This structure here before us, a bewildering fagade of marble, 
colors, gold and silver, is the ikonostasis, or sacred screen, which 
stands in front of the actual altar, shielding that from the gaze 
of the people. During service the officiating priests come and 
go through those beautifully carved doors in the centre of the 
screen, doors costing thousands of dollars, a mass of precious 
metals wrought by the most skillful workmen. Candles and lamps 
of holy oil are both devoted here to the honor of God and the 
saints; see, some candles stand on tall candlesticks, some at the 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. I3I 

right, before the picture of the Virgin and Child, fill a hanging 
chandelier. At each side wing of the ikcnostasis a lamp swings 
by long chains. 

Close by us at the right, just outside the chancel rail, near 
the large picture of the Virgin and Child, we can see an ikon 
that is a special favorite. Five tall candles stand before it, and 
many are the hearty prayers offered up by devout worshippers 
who come here with their confessions and petitions. 

We see here, even more conspicuously than when we were 
looking at the street signs, how beautifully decorative Russian 
letters are. 

The inscription above this huge, painted figure of the 
prophet, on the wall at the right, is as beautiful as any arabesqu2 
pattern; and the vertical band of lettering at the left of the 
prophet repeats the same ornamental effect. Truly, Russian 
designers have admirable material at hand in the very alphabet 
itself. 

Now for the place on the roof we saw surrounded by the 
gilded railing when we were cut in the street (Stereograph 49). 
There we will take time to look about us at our leisure. 

51. “Holy Moscow,” Looking North from the Temple of 
Our Saviour. 

This is the newer, modern part of the city. See! It stretches 
away as far as the eye can reach, buildings and trees, gay-colored 
roofs, with gilded domes blossoming here and there all over the 
scene like tall-stemmed flowers. The population of this place 
is over 900,000, so the books say, and it is a prosperous manu- 


132 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


facturing city. All the principal railroads in the empire centre 
here. St. Petersburg may continue to be the political centre of 
Russia, but Moscow is steadily increasing in industrial and com¬ 
mercial importance. Though she possesses some of the most 
curious antiquities in the empire, she herself is far from falling 
asleep. On the contrary, she is very much awake and at work, 
and means to have all the modern improvements worth having. 
See the telegraph wires and the electric-light poles down there 
in the street! And public libraries are another sign of modern 
ideals in living; Moscow has her public library too. Look at 
this low, corner building at our feet, with the gable roof and the 
curving front! Just beyond it we see a square, two-storied 
building with a balustrade around the roof. Beyond that, on the 
corner of a cross street, is another two-storied building with an 
entrance door in the middle. Now look almost straight beyond 
that, just a bit to the left, and you see a tall building with a 
heavy cornice crowning its light-colored walls, and a cupola 
above, surrounded by columns arranged in pairs. That is the 
public library and museum, once the palace of a noble Russian 
family. We shall see it nearer by-and-by. 

Let us turn to our map for a minute now. Finding the 
Temple of Our Saviour again, south-west of the Kremlin, we see 
two red lines branching out from it toward the north, each hav¬ 
ing the number 51 at its extremity on the map margin. We have 
been looking just now over that part of the city which these lines 
include. 

From the opposite side of the Temple of Our Saviour two 
other red lines branch out, one toward the east, the other toward 
the south-east. Each line has the number 52 at its extremity 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


133 


on the map margin. We afe to look now over the part of 
Moscow between these lines. 

52. Moscow, “The Pride of the Czars,” Looking South= 
east from the Temple of Our Saviour. 

Did you think Moscow seemed a large city, looking over it 
towards the north? But it extends quite as far, you see, in 
other directions. There are nearly a thousand streets in 
Moscow; and as for the churches, some say there are over four 
hundred, some say six hundred. We are ready to believe any 
figures offered to us, in the face of this forest of towers and 
domes. If we try to count those in plain sight, we shall probably 
get lost in a very few minutes. 

What a beautiful river the Moskwa is, with those clear reflec¬ 
tions of the buildings opposite. It is about as large and as 
crooked as the Seine at Paris. And does it not give one a be¬ 
wildering sense of the remoteness of people from each other, 
to think that in these streets and shops and houses, as far as 
the eye can reach, there are thousands on thousands of people 
busy about their own affairs, to whom our whole western world 
is only a vague name. “ In what district of Russia is America? ” 
asks an old soldier. “Is America near Berlin? ” politely inquires 
our droschky driver. It is good for our personal and national 
vanity to learn once in a while how contentedly people can live 
without knowing the things we know, or caring for the things we 
care for. At the same time we must probably admit that to the 
average American or Englishman Russia is only a vague name. 

In the distance we are looking towards the vast, open country 
comprising southern eastern Russia ;—towards Central Asia ;— 
towards China. 


134 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


On the map two red lines are found extending from the 
Temple of Our Saviour towards the north-east. The lower line 
extends to the margin, and has the number 53 at the end; the 
upper line extends only as far as the Kremlin, showing that the 
sweep of vision is obstructed in that direction by the Kremlin. 
We can now see with our own eyes whether that is so. 


53. The Moskwa River and the Shimmering Spires of 
Holy Moscow. 

Ah, there it is, the Kremlin, the storied centre of the city, 
the heart of it, that Napoleon meant to make his own! It is a 
triangular-shaped enclosure, within a high, rosy-white wall. 
There is a bit of the wall straight ahead, at our left, coming 
towards the river as far as - that stone tower with the conical 
roof; then turning and running down beside the river to another 
tower at the bend in the river. There the wall makes another 
corner, and runs off once more to the left (north-west) out of 
sight. It is no kind of fortress now; that wall would amount 
to nothing in modern warfare, though it did withstand some 
fierce attacks by the Poles and Lithuanians in the middle ages. 
But Moscow is wise to retain the old wall and keep the ancient 
citadel looking as nearly as possible like its old self in the days 
before electricity and railroads. 

The most picturesque and fascinating spots in all Moscow 
are within or near those Kremlin walls. We can see several 
of the most famous landmarks from here. It will help us to get 
a better idea of the location of these landmarks if we study 
the special map of the Kremlin also. The tallest of the 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


135 


towers is the bell-tower of Ivan (Ivan Veliky),* and the dome- 
crowned building at this side of the Tower is the Cathedral of 
the Archangel Michael (Cath. Arkh.). We shall go nearer and 
get closer views of both by-and-by. The great, three-storied 
building next to the Archangel Cathedral is the Imperial Palace 
(Gr. Palais), a fine building in its way, but not old enough to 
accumulate much history, for it was built only about 1850. The 
former palace, full to the roof of reminiscences, was burned 
during the occupation of the city by the French troops in 1812. 

Turning to our general map of Moscow again, we find two 
more red lines branching out from the Temple towards the 
north-east. Both of these lines extend to the margin and have 
the number 54 at their extremities. In looking out between 
these two lines we shall be able to look over the heart of the 
Kremlin. 

54. “ ’Tis the Kremlin Wall; ’tis Moscow, the Jewel of 

the Czars .” 

Here we get an admirable view of the main part of the 
Kremlin, all that we were unable to see in our former position. 

Let us see how many points we can identify, aided again by 
the Kremlin map. 

The shadows, stretching away from under us, as we stand 
on the Temple roof. They are, of course, those of the Temple 
itself. We recognize the shadow of the bulb-shaped dome of 
one of its four smaller towers (see Stereograph 49). The busy 
street that leads away in a graceful curve just in front of us 

♦There are so many variations in the spelling of Russian names that we shall 
use English equivalents in the text and add the names given on our maps in 
parentheses. 




36 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


is the dne bordering the beautiful Moskwa and following its 
winding course. Some of the wagons are making a sharp turn 
off the street toward the right. They are about crossing the 
bridge we just admired (Stereograph 53). Following the main 
street around its course past that park, full of green trees, we 
come to the corner of the Kremlin wall, marked by its round 
tower with a conical top, the same tower which we have already 
seen. 

Now let your eye run along to the left (north-west) from 
this tower, and trace the battlemented line of the wall rising 
between two masses of trees till you come to another tower, 
a darker, square tower, with small, fortress-like windows and a 
steeple-shaped roof. This marks an opening in the wall known 
as the Borovitski Gate (Porte Borovitkiia). Still farther to the 
left (north-east), beyond that fine park, is yet another of the 
old gates, the Troitsky, or Trinity Gate (Porte Troitskiia). It 
was here that the greater part of the French army entered the 
city in 1812. Napoleon, after viewing the city, as we did, from 
the Sparrow Hills (Stereograph 47), advanced and halted just 
outside the town, expecting the keys of the city to be submissively 
brought out to him. But no one appeared. Then the army came 
on and, pouring through the Trinity and Borovitsky Gates there 
before us, found, to their amazement, that the Russians had not 
stayed to surrender, but had simply abandoned the great city, leav¬ 
ing the gates open, as who should say: Enter if you think it best! 
It was an ominous reception, but the French soldiery still had 
their minds full of visions of plunder, and thought not very 
far ahead. 

|Ff Beyond the Troitsky Gate the Kremlin Wall extends still 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


137 


farther north-east, enclosing the Arsenal (that long pile of light- 
colored buildings is the Arsenal), and then running into another 
round tower with a conical roof, very like this first one on the 
corner near us. At the farther round tower, the wall makes a 
sharp angle and runs south-east, but that, of course, we cannot 
see from here. We shall go around later to that farther side of) 
the. wall, for there are some particularly interesting things to see 
over there. 

But now what can we make out within the walled enclosure? 
Coming back to the nearest round tower at the curve of this 
street and looking just beyond it, we see again the Cathedral 
of the Archangel Michael, and the tall tower of Ivan beyond it 
to the left. That is, of course, the Palace, just this side of the 
Ivan Tower. The building to the left of the Palace is the Royal 
Treasury (Orotjeina'io Palata). 

When the French made their entry, Napoleon took up his 
residence, conqueror-fashion, in the great Palace. But no sooner 
were the troops fairly inside the city than fires, which the Rus¬ 
sians had intentionally kindled, burst out in a dozen different 
places, and the invaders were forced to move from one part of 
the city to another, fighting these fires. (It is almost a miracle 
that the Archangel Cathedral and the Ivan Tower were spared 
by the flames. The Palace and the Treasury adjoining it were 
destroyed and afterwards rebuilt as we see.them now.) It was 
after four days of this wretched attempt at occupying the city 
that Napoleon proposed to Field-Marshal Kutuzoff the making 
of a treaty of peace. Kutuzoff refused, saying that the Czar 
Alexander was but just getting ready to begin operations. No 
treaty would be signed as long as a Frenchman remained in the 


13& RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 

land! The French lingered and delayed four weeks longer, and 
then began that frightfully disastrous retreat, one of the greatest 
military tragedies in modern history. 

We remember seeing in St. Petersburg the Alexander 
Column, raised to commemorate the defeat of the invasion 
(Stereograph 12). And this is the very spot where Napoleon 
had believed he was going to seize Russia by the throat 1 Doesn’t 
it make the historic story a thousand times more real, now that 
we see the very gates and buildings around which the tragedy 
centred ? 

Now let us go down from our lofty station on the church 
roof and cross the bridge which we saw a few minutes ago 
(Stereograph 53), to the south of the Moskwa, to get still an¬ 
other view of the little, walled heart of the old town. We will 
pass along the river towards the east until we come to a point 
just beyond the cathedrals and the tall bell-tower. The map 
of the Kremlin must be used now; that gives our position and 
shows we are to look somewhat'north of west. 

55. The Kremlin, Moscow. “There lie our ancient Czars, 
asleep.” 

This is good! Now we can see the wall much nearer and 
get a better idea of its impressive height, by comparing it with 
the men and horses in the street below. This is the southern 
side of the Kremlin. One, two, three towers are set in the wall 
just opposite where we stand, but only the left-hand one of 
the three seems to afford entrance. That is the Tainitski Gate 
(Porte Tainitskiia). The tall bell-tower (Ivan Veliky) looks 
taller than ever as we approach it closer. It is really three 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


139 


hundred and twenty-five feet to the summit of that gilt cross 
above its dome. And have we three of those dome-capped cath¬ 
edrals between the bell-tower and the palace? Even so. The 
churches in Moscow are as thick as buttercups in a field. From 
. our station on the top of the Church of Our Saviour we could 
see clearly only the central one of these three churches,—that of 
the Archangel Michael (Cath. Arkh.). 

At St. Petersburg (Stereograph 27) we saw the tombs of 
the emperors since Peter the Great. Here in the Cathedral of 
Michael are buried the older Czars, before Peter’s day, forty- 
seven of them. Twice a year a religious service is held there, 
and prayers are made for the forgiveness of “that burden of 
sins voluntary or involuntary, known to themselves or unknown,” 
which the dead princes committed while they were on earth. 

But how magnificent they were while they walked the earth! 
Each heir-apparent when he in turn became Czar has held prac¬ 
tically absolute sway over millions of subjects, the autocrat of 
their secular destiny and the visible Head of their Church. And 
you know it is in that Cathedral of the Assumption (Cath. 
Ousp.), standing between the Cathedral of Michael and the tall 
bell-tower, that each new Czar, since Ivan the Terrible in the 
sixteenth century, has been crowned and invested with his 
enormous authority. It was in that very cathedral that the 
Grand Duke Nicholas in 1894 became Czar Nicholas II, the 
arbiter of the fate of one hundred and thirty million people, 
and the master of one-seventh of all the land upon this globe. 
Such a coronation service is splendid and solemn at the same 
time. It is preceded, on the Emperor’s part, by fasting and re¬ 
ligious meditation. He publicly recites the creed of the Russian 


140 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 




Church, prays for the Empire, and then himself places the crown 
upon his own head to signify his taking on the vast responsibili¬ 
ties of imperial rule. 

You notice that third church standing between the Cath¬ 
edral of the Archangel Michael and the Palace? That is the 
Cathedral of the Annunciation (Cath. Blagor.). It is there that 
most of the Czars have been baptized and married. When the 
French occupied the Kremlin in 1812, they stabled some of their 
horses in this church to show their contempt for all things Rus¬ 
sian. But, alas, for their short-lived pride! Many of those 
same elegant French officers were glad to eat horse-flesh to stay 
the pangs of deadly hunger, during their fearful march homeward 
through cold and carnage. 

The most characteristically Russian of all buildings in the 
country are probably this group before which we are standing. 
From an architectural standpoint, they undoubtedly have a great 
many faults; they seem to own a sort of cousinship to the work 
of Byzantine builders, and yet they lack the dignified simplicity 
and well-harmonized proportions of the Byzantine work. They 
have a strong flavor of the Orient,—we can feel an Eastern 
influence in those many hued, gilded and silvered domes; and 
yet these buildings are not full-blooded offspring of Tartar 
taste, for every dome bears its cross, in token of the faith of 
the Nazarene. Every interior is planned for the worship of the 
Trinity. Greece and Tartary have evidently both contributed to 
the shaping of these strange architectural fantasies, but the result 
cannot be called anything but Russian. It would be interesting 
to see whether a good architect today could produce anything 
really sensible, strong and beautiful, using these puzzling bits of 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 141 

native building for a text, and trying to solve his practical prob¬ 
lems of modern need in terms of ancient form and color. 

But the newer Russian architecture is, as a matter of fact, 
almost entirely abandoning the childlike tastes of earlier genera¬ 
tions and adopting more or less commonplace European ideals 
instead. We saw that in St. Petersburg. It is as if the people 
of a certain district were to give up all at once the possibly un¬ 
couth but certainly striking costumes of their ancestors, and 
henceforward wear only ready-made clothing of the current 
year’s cut. The Palace, that large building next west (to the 
left) from the Cathedral of the Annunciation, is an instance in 
point. Nicholas I built it in its present form after the old palace 
had been burned during the French occupancy. It is an enor¬ 
mous rambling structure (we see from here only a part of one 
end), containing some 700 rooms; but the exterior is not at all 
impressive or beautiful. New Russia, modern Russia, has not 
yet waked up to a realizing sense of what she might do with her 
national architecture. 

Meanwhile, we are at liberty to enjoy these extraordinary 
creations of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, more like 
clumps of outlandish flowers in bloom than like Christian 
churches, according to our own Western notions. We are to 
enter the Kremlin enclosure and study some of those buildings 
near at hand. 

There are, as we have seen, various gates by which we might 
enter the Kremlin; but one of these has special significance and 
interest even more than the others. We will choose that for our 
place of entry. 

This gate, the Spaski Gate (Porte Spasskiia), is in the east- 


142 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


ern wall of the Kremlin, farther to our right than we can here 
see. Our Kremlin map shows that the south-east corner of the 
wall is not far beyond the limit of vision on our right. We 
will move on along the street in which we have been, on the 
right bank of the river, and cross a bridge, the Pont Moskvo- 
restsky, to the east, bringing us out just east of the Kremlin. 
At this corner the wall turns at almost a right angle, as we see 
on the map again, and runs nearly straight north to the Spaski 
Gate. We will pause near the wall, about one-eighth of a mile 
from the gate, and look north towards it. 

56. The Kremlin Wall and Tower of the Sacred Gate, Mos¬ 
cow. 

Here we are right under the Kremlin Wall, as we pass up 
the street towards the gate with its tall clock-tower. 

Moscow is a city of bewildering extremes. Just as the con¬ 
vent prison of Czar Peter’s sister (Stereograph 48) was flanked 
by telegraph lines and street lamps, so extremes of wealth and 
poverty meet too. Immense fortunes are accumulated and spent 
here in Moscow, and yet there are vast numbers of the people who 
live in the most abject poverty. The same facts exist in our 
own American cities too, but here the picturesque setting of the 
facts emphasizes them in a stranger’s eyes. 

That building we see in the distance, at the extreme right, 
is a part of the Great Bazaar where people with plenty of money 
to spend go shopping. Here on the bank beside the Kremlin 
Wall is quite another sort of institution, a market for second¬ 
hand clothes and other cheap household stuffs. Probably you 
do not care to make any purchases here just at present, so we 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


143 


will go on up the hill to where the gate leads from the Red 
Square, by the Bazaar, into the enclosure of the Kremlin. 

57. Spaski Vorota, Sacred Gate of the Kremlin. 

Now that we have reached this point opposite the gate, we 
find it looks like a large and gloomy church, its high square 
walls decorated in semi-Gothic fashion. People come and go 
through that cavernous passageway that opens just before us. 
In a few minutes we will go through ourselves; but they and 
we, and everyone that passes through, even the Czar himself, 
must go with uncovered head the length of the passageway until 
the open is reached on the farther side. They say that Napoleon, 
when he was here, scornfully declined to follow the old custom, 
but Heaven would not suffer his intended disrespect. A sudden 
gust of September wind took that famous cocked hat and sent it 
whirling down the street. He did pass through uncovered 
after all! 

The reason for this religiously kept observance is the pres¬ 
ence of the ikon or holy picture of the Redeemer hung there 
over the doorway. It is an old ikon which has for centuries been 
credited with specially conspicuous powers of miracle-working. 
As the story goes, some impious Tartars—away back in the old 
times when Russia was harassed by their invasions—tried to 
tear it down, but every ladder they used broke in the using, and 
they gave up the attempt. The Russian army carried it with 
them as a supernatural aid when they were at war with Poland 
in the early part of the seventeenth century, and with its help 
they succeeded in capturing Smolensk. When Napoleon was here 
the French soldiers tried to demolish it with cannon shot, but 


144 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


at first their powder proved to be not in working condition, 
and then when they did touch off their gun with some effect, 
the effect was not what they intended; for the charge exploded 
their gun and left the ikon unharmed. 

The death penalty is now all but abolished in Russia; but 
two and three hundred years ago, when indeed all Europe re¬ 
garded public executions as salutary object-lessons, Russian 
monarchs were relentless in the severity of the punishments 
meted out to offenders. Many have been the ghastly scenes that 
took place in the Red Square (Place Krasnaia), extending off 
to the right from where we stand. Ivan the Terrible, in the 
sixteenth century, had hundreds of rebellious subjects put to 
death here in the enforced presence of crowds of terrified spec¬ 
tators. Even so late as the time of Peter the Great, horrible 
spectacles took place here. Insurrections had broken out in cer¬ 
tain divisions of the army, and Peter believed these were en¬ 
couraged by his sister Sophia. The princess he promptly shut 
up in the Novo Devitchi convent (Stereograph 48), but the 
rebels themselves were beheaded without mercy near this gate, 
their heads being fastened along the top of the Kremlin wall 
as a warning to soldiers and citizens. Very likely, many of the 
condemned said their last prayers here before the picture at 
this gate. 

Historical reminiscences make this really not a cheerful 
place in which to linger, even though the bright mid-day sunshine 
does flood the square, and the shifting throng of teamsters, 
droschky drivers, errand boys and all sorts of peaceful citizens 
seems to indicate that life goes on cheerfully enough just now. 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 145 

Let us go in through the gate to see the sights of the Kremlin 
itself, not forgetting the rule about bared heads. If we should 
forget, any one of these Russians will hasten to admonish us. 
The rule simply must be obeyed, or the heavens may fall. Very 
well. If that bit of ceremony is the fee required for entrance 
into the charmed precinct we will pay it readily, for there is 
nothing which so makes us want to enter any given place as the 
putting of a high wall around it. The only hint we get here of 
what there is on the other side is the gleaming dome of one of 
the Kremlin buildings surmounted by its glittering cross. The 
map shows that we shall stand next inside the Kremlin Wall 
and look back (north) to this gate and the church beyond it. 

58. Voznesenski Devitchi (Ascension Convent), Ancient 
Burial=PJace of Czarinas and Princesses. 

Now we have passed through the gate (that is the dooi 
yonder, through which we came) and are in the Czar’s Square, 
within the enclosure of the Kremlin. It was the dome of this 
old convent (Convent Vozness.) that we saw from the Red 
Square outside the Sacred Gate (Stereograph 57). 

From this nearer point we can see more plainly the details 
of the dome, and notice the gilded chains that extend from the 
trefoil-shaped ends of the arms of the cross down to the top of 
the dome. That decorative use of chains is characteristically 
Russian. We shall see it again on other ecclesiastical buildings. 
Do you notice that oddly elaborated cross on the dome over 
behind (and away to the left of) this entrance portion of the 
convent? See, it has three cross-pieces, growing gradually nar¬ 
rower toward the top, and it is fixed in the concave side of a 


146 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


gilded crescent. This sort of combination of cross and crescent 
is characteristically Russian too. It has often been explained 
as a reminiscence of the old occupancy of Russia by the Tartars; 
the crescent was a favorite emblem of that Asiatic people, and 
travellers in Russia are often given to understand that the 
planting of a cross on a crescent is a Russian symbol of the 
victory of their own Christian religion over the Mohammedan 
faith of their eastern invaders; but, more likely, the crescent was 
originally used here as a symbol of the Virgin, and the planting 
of the cross on the crescent was meant as a reminder of the 
miracle of the Nativity. 

When they tell us that this Ascension Convent was founded 
by a pious Czarina in the fourteenth century, we guess at once 
that this elegantly elaborate building fronting on the square 
must be a rebuilt structure. The original buildings were partly 
burned in one of the dreadful fires that have swept over the 
Kremlin, and this portion, among others, was put up less than 
a hundred years ago. That accounts for its queerly mixed style, 
a compound of Byzantine and perpendicular Gothic. The con¬ 
vent is really a very large establishment, including two churches 
and large court-yards, besides the buildings where the nuns 
live. That gate-way next the end of this white-walled building 
—the one with the beautiful, lace-like grille over the door— 
leads into the convent court-yard. There are nuns in this con¬ 
vent today keeping up practically the same life of religious de¬ 
votion which the Princess Eudoxia led five hundred years ago, 
when she retired from the cares and complications of a royal 
career to say her prayers and take care of the sick poor. Ever 
since Eudoxia’s day the convent has been to Russian women a 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


147 


haven of refuge from the turbulent outside world, and many 
princesses who never resorted to it during their lives were given 
the hospitality of tombs after their death. It was not until after 
Peter the Great had transferred his own affections to St. Peters¬ 
burg and established the precedent of using the fortress cathedral 
there as a place of burial (Stereograph 27) that the use of this 
convent chapel for the resting-place of the Czarinas came to 
an end. 

All this time we have been standing with our backs toward 
some of the most interesting features of the Kremlin. Let us 
turn directly about. The map of the Kremlin shows what our 
position will then be. 

59. Tower of Ivan the Great and Cathedral of the Arch= 
angel Michael. 

Here we are in the midst of that wonderful group of build¬ 
ings that we were studying a little while ago from a point over 
on the right bank of the Moskwa River (Stereograph 55). The 
wall and the river below it are now away at our left. This is 
the same bell-tower (Ivan Veliky) which we saw from the roof 
of the Temple of Our Saviour (Stereographs 53-54), but now we 
are near enough to see the bells in several of the successive 
stories. Bells? This end of the Czar’s Square is full of them. 
The tower and the tall building adjoining it make a nest of 
bells, thirty-four in all; and there, straight ahead of us, on the 
ground at the foot of the tower is the bell of all, the one that 
used to be pictured in our school-books, the Great Bell of 
Moscow! 


148 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


The tower is one of the most beautiful buildings we have yet 
seen in Russia,—dignified and simple, beautifully proportioned. 
How much more pleasant it is to the eye on account of the 
differences between the different stories, though theyJharmonize 
well and make one strong, consistent whole! The lower story 
is the'^most solid, with those narrow loop-holes of windows 
that help give it its serious, substantial look, as if it might last 
forever. Then the arcaded portion above gives airiness, and 
makes beautiful contrasts of light and shade where the windows 
alternate with solid wall space. And just see how each successive 
story, marked off by horizontal bands of sculptured moulding, 
leads our eye gradually higher and higher and higher, making us 
feel the whole height more than we should if the upward trend 
were all in a few unbroken vertical lines. Besides, the horizontal 
mouldings make something more for the sunlight to play with, 
laying soft bands of shadow around the eight-sided shaft and 
making lovely varieties of light and dark to please our eye. It 
is not often we have a chance to actually admire the form of 
the older Russian buildings. Generally we enjoy their queer¬ 
ness and quaintness and story-book suggestiveness, but cannot 
honestly regard them as things of beauty. All the more we are 
grateful for the Ivan Tower. Somebody had a fine eye for 
beauty in construction. The names of the Czar Boris and the 
Czarevitch (crown prince) Theodore are inscribed as the builders 
on one of those encircling bands away up at the top of the tower 
just under the dome; but it is the name of the fifteenth-century 
architect, Ivan (John), that has clung to it. 

Here is a bit of variety in Moscow domes. The four smaller 
domes on the roof of the Cathedral of the Archangel Michael 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


149 


(Cath. Arkh.) are not bulb-shaped at all, but hemispherical, as 
they might be anywhere else outside Russia. Their gilded sur¬ 
faces make a dazzling contrast with the white-washed walls of 
the church. Curiously enough, the oldest buildings in Moscow 
do not show the signs of age that we are accustomed to see in 
other parts of Europe. There are no “ ivy-mantled towers ” here, 
and as soon as a wall or a dome changes color from time and 
weather, the Russians, who love bright, new, gay things, hasten 
to re-paint, re-whiten, re-silver and re-gild. Though Holy 
Moscow has been the scene of battles and sieges innumerable, 
every time the ravages have been repaired and the old structures 
made as fine as ever in all their bravery of gilding and color. 

It would be interesting to go inside the Cathedral of the 
Archangel, and .see the tombs of the old Czars. Each one was 
Lord of the Earth while he lived. Ivan the Terrible, the monarch 
who ordered many of the dreadful executions outside the Sacred 
Gate (Stereograph 57), was, if traditions are true, a prince as 
ferocious as the giants in fairy stories. A man one day brought 
him a letter from a Russian prince who had deserted to the 
Poles. Ivan thrust a sharp-pointed staff through the wretched 
messenger’s foot, pinning him to the ground, and held him there 
while he read the letter of his absconding vassal. Dreadful tales 
of all sorts are told of Czar Ivan IV, and yet the very fact that 
he was their Czar and that he drove out the hated Tartars from 
the land, makes the Russian people forgive his ferocity. There 
is an old song about his funeral:— 

“ All the warrior people assembled to pray to God in the Cathedral; 
there was a new coffin made of cypress-wood; in the coffin lies the 
orthodox Czar, the orthodox Czar Ivan Vasilievitch the Terrible. 

At his head lies the life-giving cross; by the cross lies the imperial 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


150 


crown; at his feet lies the terrible sword ; around the coffin burn the 
holy lights ; in front of the coffin stand all the priests and patriarchs— 
they read, they pray, they repeat the valediction to the dead, to our 
orthodox Czar, our Czar Ivan Vasilievitch the Terrible.” 

It would be interesting to visit the Chudof (miracle) Monas¬ 
tery (Conv. Tchoudov), whose columned fagade is here at our 
right. When the French occupied the city, Marshal Davoust, 
it is said, used the High Altar of this Monastery Church for 
his bed-room. It was a brief season that Napoleon’s men had 
here, but they held all sorts of unholy revelry while it lasted. 

Since we have come so near to that old friend of our child¬ 
hood, the Great Bell, suppose we cross the Square and go quite 
close to it. A good place to examine it will be at the farther 
side of the bell at the left of the tower, for on that side are the 
broken place and the fragment that dropped out long, long ago. 
We are now looking south; we shall then be looking north. 

60. The King of Bells, Weighing 200 Tons, the Great Bell 
of Moscow. 

And this is the Great Bell of which we have so often heard. 
We know all about it as it stands here now on its pedestal in 
the square. It is 26 feet in height, almost 68 in circumference, 
and it weighs 200 tons. It is the largest bell in all the world, and 
it bears portrait representations of the Czar Alexis and the 
Empress Anne. The intention was, it is said, to hang it in the 
Great Cathedral, but it fell while being hoisted, and the 
piece we see here was broken out. Tradition says it was cast 
early in the seventeenth century, in the reign of the Czar Boris, 
who built the beautiful tower (the same Boris who established 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


151 


serfdom), and afterwards successively recast by Alexis and 
Anne; but nobody seems to be quite sure where or how. For 
at least a hundred years it had lain here broken and half buried 
in the earth, until Nicholas I in 1836 had it dug up and placed 
on the pedestal where it is now. It is a monument to some¬ 
body’s ambition; the greatest bell on earth; we can only guess 
at the enormous volume of its sound when it was rung. If only 
it could tell its own story! But it rests here, a pathetically dumb 
and disabled giant, nonchalantly climbed upon through the day 
by these street boys and impertinently eyed at night by these 
upstart modern gas lamps that stand staring about the Square. 
How are the mighty fallen! 

Just a moment before we turn to the tower at our left. See 
those further variations of the cross that are displayed on the 
domes of the Chudof Monastery on the farther side of the 
Square at the left. The simple Greek cross (with four equal 
arms) is a favorite form in Russia, but ecclesiastical decora¬ 
tions include a great number of variations of both the Greek 
and the familiar Latin form. Here is another instance close at 
hand in the top of the Great Bell,—a Greek cross with rays par¬ 
tially filling in the space between the arms. 

Now that we are at the very foot of the tower, wouldn’t it 
be interesting to climb to the top as Napoleon did, and look 
out over Holy Moscow? It will be worth our while. Let us 
make our way, then, up three hundred and forty-two steps 
among the bells, and look toward the north-east. Only the 
general map of Moscow locates our new field of view. Two red 
lines will be found branching out from the Kremlin with the 
number 61 at the end of each on the map margin. 


152 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


\ 


61. Holy Moscow, from the Tower of Ivan the Great. 

How tiny the people look, down in the Square where we 
were only a few minutes ago! The droschky horses look like the 
rats and mice that drew Cinderella’s pumpkin-shell coach. Yes, 
we recognize the nearest landmarks off at the east. The build¬ 
ing just at our feet, with the columns guarding its curved front, 
is the Chudof Monastery, the columned facade of which we 
caught a glimpse away to our right (Stereograph 59), and again 
we saw this face of the Monastery to our right when looking at 
the Great Bell (Stereograph 60). We remember well that white 
building next beyond the Monastery, with the great dome and 
the curious, steeple-shaped ornaments on the rocf, like stacks 
of corn in a field; that is the Ascension Convent, the first build¬ 
ing we studied after we came inside the Kremlin (Stereograph 
58) ; in fact, the one whose dome peeped over the wall at us 
while we were standing outside the Sacred Gate (Stereo¬ 
graph 57). 

There is the Sacred Gate itself, or at least its tower-shaped 
top with the clock-face. And there is the Kremlin Wall run¬ 
ning off to the right from the Sacred Gate. It was over at the 
other side of that wall that we lingered by the market booths 
(Stereograph 56). And what of that fantastic building just op¬ 
posite at the right (south) of the Sacred Gate and beyond the 
wall? That is St. Basil’s Church (Egl. Vas. Blaj. on the map). 
They told us that Moscow is continually re-painting her gay and 
gilded roofs, and here we find her in the process. St. Basil’s 
Church is almost covered just now with scaffolding, for the 
freshening of all those queer onion and pineapple-shaped domes 
with which it blossoms. It is the strangest conglomeration of 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


153 


shapes that ever an architect conceived,—with its eleven domes, 
each one seemingly more fanciful in shape than all the rest, and 
all painted in gay colors, gilded and silvered or sprinkled with 
glittering stars. 

When Napoleon looked down at it, as we are looking now, 
he took it for some old Tartar structure and issued orders for 
“ that mosque ” to be destroyed; but in some way or other the 
instructions were neglected, so St. Basil’s shrine is standing to 
this day; indeed, it is being mended and furbished up, as we 
see, in readiness for still longer life. The St. Basil whom it 
commemorates is not the famous old church father, but a local 
saint of Ivan’s day. 

We get a good idea here of the eastern extent of the whole 
city as it stretches off beyond the Kremlin. We have already 
looked north over the city from the Temple of Our Saviour 
(Stereograph 51), south from the same point (Stereograph 52), 
and last over a part of the same district which we see now 
(Stereograph 53). These outlooks, put together, give us a pretty 
good idea of the size of the city. The distance across the whole 
city is from six to nine miles, according to the direction taken, 
and it includes about a thousand streets, housing a population 
equal to that of Brooklyn. 

We ought to get one closer view of the Cathedral of the 
Assumption, and to do this we must go down once more the 
stairs of the Ivan Tower, and pass around to the other (west) 
side. You remember how, when we looked at these buildings 
from over across the river (Stereograph 55), the Assumption 
Cathedral seemed to stand in behind and between the Tower 
and the Cathedral of Michael. The Kremlin map shows that we 
are to look at it from the south. 


*54 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


62, Cathedral of the Assumption. 

It is a wonderful object-lesson in tolerance to visit these 
old churches and try to realize their point of view. To the 
orthodox Russian, his church is the one true descendant from 
the little Galilean band who learned their lore of Christ; all the 
rest of the world are wanderers and wayfarers, strayed far from 
the true fold. 

How different this Russian facade is from the sculptured cath¬ 
edrals of Western Europe! Everything of a decorative sort is flat, 
or nearly flat, the holy figures of saints and martyrs, patriarchs 
and prophets being partly painted and partly represented in 
metal. The colored figures of the saints around and above the 
doorway shine out with double conspicuousness in contrast with 
the severely plain, whitewashed walls in which they are set. 
These pictures and the beautifully gilded domes together cer¬ 
tainly make this church singularly impressive, in spite of the 
expanses of commonplace whitewash. 

We can see plainly here another instance of the use of gilded 
chains hanging from the arms of the crosses high in air and 
coming down to the domes below. And do not those narrow 
loop-holes of windows suggest that there must be inside a par¬ 
ticularly dim religious light? 

The building beyond the high fence on our extreme right 
is the Chudof Monastery of which we have caught glimpses sev¬ 
eral times already. 

Between the Cathedral of the Archangel Michael and the 
Great Palace, we saw, when we were over at the other side of 
the river (Stereograph 55), the Cathedral of the Annunciation 
with a staircase in front (Cath. Blagov, on the map). 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


155 


63. Cathedral of the Annunciation. 

We find ourselves now at the foot of the staircase where 
we can look up at the fanciful little church with its nine domes 
symbolic of the nine celestial hierarchies, and its towers and 
scalloped gables. This is the church where almost all the Czars 
have been married with great state and ceremony. There was 
an old church here as far back as the thirteenth century, but 
this particular building is largely the work of Ivan the Terrible. 
It does not look as if it were even so old as Ivan’s day, but that 
is because of the Russian fondness for renovating old buildings, 
painting and gilding their age out of sight. 

One of the famous ikons belonging to this church is a picture 
of the Virgin which has worked miracles similar to those of the 
ikon of the Sacred Gate (Stereograph 57). Czar Dimitri carried 
it with him in 1380 when he went to fight the Tartars on the 
banks of the Don, and its presence helped him gain a famous 
victory at the battle of Kulikovo. The wife of Dimitri was the 
Princess Eudoxia, she who founded the Voznesenski Convent 
(Stereograph 58) over beside the Sacred Gate. There is an old 
Russian song which tells of a prophetic vision appearing to 
Dimitri while he was attending service here:— 

“ In the holy Cathedral of the Annunciation S. Cyprian the metro¬ 
politan was singing the mass, and Prince Dimitri was assisting with 
his princess, Eudoxia, with his princes and boyars, with his famous 
captains. 

“Suddenly Prince Dimitri ceased to pray; he leaned against a 
pillar; he was suddenly rapt in spirit; his spiritual eyes were opened ; 
he had a strange vision. 

“ He no longer saw the candles burning before the ikons; he no 
longer heard the music of the sacred choirs ; it was the wild country, 
the battlefield of Kulikovo which he saw. It was sown with the corpses 
of Christians and Tartars—the bodies of the Christians like melting 
wax, the bodies of the Tartars like black pitch. 


156 RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 

“ On this field of Kulikovo the holy Mother of God was walking. 
Behind her were the angels of the Saviour, the angels and the holy 
archangels with burning tapers ; they sang holy songs over the relics 
of the orthodox warriors. . . . 

“And the Mother of God asked : ‘ Where is the Prince Dimitri ? ’ 

And the Apostle Peter answered her: ‘The Prince Dimitri is in the 
town of Moscow. . . . He is hearing the liturgy with his Princess 

Eudoxia, with his princes and boyars, with his famous captains.’ 

“ Then the Mother of God said : ‘ The Prince Dimitri is not in his 
place ; he should be leading the choirs of the martyrs; but as for his 
Princess, her place is in my flock.’ 

“ Then the vision vanished. The candles were burning in the 
church, the precious stones sparkled upon the altars. Dimitri came 
to himself, wept abundantly, and spoke thus : 

“ ' Know that the hour of my death is at hand ; soon I shall be laid 
in the coffin and my Princess will take the veil.’ ” 

And now in the Cathedral of the Archangel, only a few rods 
away, Dimitri’s body lies buried, while a little farther away in 
the Ascension Convent by the gate, are the relics of Eudoxia, the 
good Czarina who became a saint after her death. 


After all, the Kremlin, while it includes palaces and churches, 
convents and monasteries, was originally the acropolis or citadel 
of Moscow. Its walls were constructed for military defence: 
and in the days when fighting was done by archers instead of 
musketeers and artillery, they served fairly well at one time 
and another against the fierce inroads of Tartars and Poles. 

At the north end of the Kremlin stands the Arsenal; we 
saw one side of it, a low, light-colored structure, north of the 
Borovitski and Troitski Gates, when we first surveyed the citadel 
from the roof of the Temple of Our Saviour (Stereograph 54). 
Find on the Kremlin map the Arsenal, in the northern part of 
the Kremlin enclosure, and note that we are to stand next near 
its south-eastern corner and look north along its eastern wall. 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


157 


64 . The Great Czar Cannon, Kremlin Arsenal, Moscow. 

In the open square before the Arsenal there are ranged 
nearly nine hundred cannon captured at different times from 
enemies on Russian soil; and, as if to still remind them that 
Russia is their master, this enormous gun stands guard at the 
corner of the building. It was cast in 1586, during the reign of 
Feodore 1 , and weighs nearly forty tons. Energetic Peter the 
Great, in the course of his national house-cleaning, melted up 
and recast most of the cannon made before his own day, but 
he took a fancy to spare this one giant for the wondering ad¬ 
miration of future citizens and of strangers like ourselves. It 
is a magnificent piece of metal work for its time, the era of 
Henry of Navarre and William the Silent and Sir Francis Drake, 
—but how grotesquely clumsy and incapable in comparison with 
the guns Russia so well knows how to handle today! 

The building on our right is the Senate or Tribunal 
where the Courts of Law are established. The tower that 
we see beyond the old cannon is that of the Nicholas Gate 
(Porte Nicholas) at the north-east corner of the Kremlin. 
We have seen now all five of the Kremlin gates; the Troitski 
and Borovitski (Stereograph 54), the Tainitski (Stereograph 
55), the Spaski (Stereograph 57), and now the Nicholas. 
At this Nicholas Gate there is a sacred picture almost as remark¬ 
able as the one at the Spaski Gate, though people are not ab¬ 
solutely obliged to pass through bare-headed in its honor. The 
French troops had orders to destroy it, but their cannon (so 
the tale is told) became “ possessed ” and missed fire, succeeding 
after a while in splitting the tower, but leaving the picture and 
the votive lamp before it quite unharmed. 


58 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


The veneration of Russians for this Kremlin, the ancient 
heart of their ancient city, is something deep-rooted. From cen¬ 
tury to century traditions have been handed down to show how 
the Powers of Heaven watch over Holy Moscow. This is a 
characteristic bit of Russian rhapsody over it:— 

“ Bow thy head, faithful child of Russia; the immortal Kremlin 
rises before thee. It has grown great amid tempests, and, master of 
its destiny, its brow laden with centuries, it stands powerful and stead¬ 
fast, dominant above Moscow like the genius of glory. Here the 
proudest spirit becomes humble, thought remains still; but the heart 
of a true Russian is flooded with joy.” 

But the city is not all for court pageantry, religion and war. 
It seems much of the time while we are going about these curious 
old streets, that the people who live here must lead story-book 
lives like the characters in historical romances and in grand 
opera,—“Every sail on the horizon is enchanted except that of 
the ship in which we sail.” Yet, as a matter of fact, the simple 
commonplaces of daily living are the rule. People prosaically 
earn wages and salaries here, just as they do in our own Amer¬ 
ican towns, and spend their wages as freely for all sorts of 
temporary needs and fancies. 

The popular shopping district of Moscow is in the Kitai 
Gorod, another walled section of the city north-east of the Krem¬ 
lin (Govodskaia on the general map). It is sometimes called the 
“ Chinese Town,” but there is nothing Chinese about it. The 
derivation of the name Kitai Gorod is not quite certain, but is 
probably a corrupted repetition of the name of a town in south¬ 
west Russia, where Helena, the mother of Ivan the Terrible, was 
born. For three hundred years this commercial annex to the 
Kremlin has been the resort of citizens with money to spend. 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


159 


We shall now take our stand once more on the east side of 
the Kremlin Wall, near the Spaski Gate. This time, as the 
Kremlin map shows, we shall look just west of north. 

65. The Great Bazaar in the Kitai Gorod, Moscow. 

Here again, as on the Nevsky Prospect in St. Petersburg 
(Stereograph 8), we find a vast number of retail shops brought 
together in one long building and called the Great Bazaar. In 
fact, the idea was no doubt carried from Moscow to St. Peters¬ 
burg when Peter the Great issued orders that certain Moscow 
merchants should straightway move to his new capital, and hence¬ 
forward carry on their business there. Hundreds of retail shops 
for every sort of goods are to be found here, and bargain-hunting 
becomes a lively game when played with Russian shop-keepers. 
Many of them expect to have their first price refused, and adjust 
their schedules accordingly to make allowance for your objections, 
expostulations, arguments and cajolery. The shops where metal 
work is sold are naturally among the most popular with tourists. 
And you need not be surprised to find each shop-keeper doing his 
reckoning upon the abacus, a frame of wires on which beads are 
strung for counting. 

The square spread out before us is, you remember, the Red 
Square, the scene of much bloodshed. We still have a reminder 
of the Kremlin. Notice that shadow on the street, beyond this 
iron fence near us. That shadow is cast by the Sacred Gate, now 
a few steps to our left. The twin spires in the distance on the 
left belong to the Resurrection Gate, one of the entrances to the 
Kitai Gorod. The still darker building, only part of which we 
see at the extreme left, is the historical museum. We shall look 


i6o 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


at those buildings from a much nearer point soon, but on the way 
we will stop and look at the central entrance of this great bazaar 
on our right. 

66 . Central Entrance to the Great Bazaar, Kitai Gorod, 
Moscow. 

Would you believe it possible that this elegant modern build¬ 
ing, its entrance flanked by electric lights, is within a few min¬ 
utes’ walk of the Kremlin cathedrals and the Sacred Gate,—bits 
of the Middle Ages, still with us? Even so; for there are plenty 
of people in Moscow who know little of its history, but care a 
great deal about fashionably correct clothes and furniture, and 
these prosperous folk keep large amounts of money in circu¬ 
lation. 

There is, however, one characteristic Russian detail which 
makes this great Bazaar different from the great shops of Paris, 
or Vienna, or Berlin, or London, or New York. It is the ikon 
conspicuously placed over the front door,—a head of Christ, is 
it not? Every orthodox home and shop in Russia has at least 
one ikon, often more than one, to preside over affairs and dispense 
blessings. 

They say that Moscow is gradually becoming a centre of 
mercantile wealth, so many manufacturers and shop-keepers have 
amassed large fortunes in various lines of trade. It was in 
recognition of the public spirit and patriotic devotion of a Rus¬ 
sian cattle-dealer in the seventeenth century that the monument 
we see in the middle of that Square before us was erected in 
1818, by “grateful Russia” as the inscription says. The monu¬ 
ment represents citizen Minin of Nijni Novgorod urging Prince 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. l6l 

Pojarski to free Moscow from the Poles (1612), and offering 
his private fortune to support the movement. 

As we stand here, of course, the Kremlin is behind us, and 
off to our left is the historical museum and the gate we saw a 
few minutes ago (Stereograph 65). If we make our way between 
these passing droschkys and stand beside the statue of Minin 
and Prince Pojarski, and look to our left, we shall get a good 
view of those other interesting features of the Kitai Gorod. 

67. The Historical Museum and Resurrection Gate of the 
Kitai Gorod. 

The Historical Museum of Moscow, housed in that cathedral¬ 
like building before us, contains beautifully arranged representa¬ 
tions and relics of various pre-historic ages and of the more 
ancient historic eras. 

The other two-towered building at the right of the statue is, 
we can see now, really a gate. It is one of six, giving entrance 
to. this district, the Kitai Gorod, through the old walls. This 
particular passageway is known as the Voskresenski or Resur¬ 
rection Gate. The church near it to the right is Kazan Cathe¬ 
dral (Cath. de Kazan). Just this side of that gate and the 
Cathedral is a little chapel, with a bell in its white tower, which 
is the home of one of the most famous ikons in all Russia,—a 
representation of the Virgin, called the “ Iberian Mother of God ” 
(Porte Iberian Chap.). When a Russian Czar comes to Moscow 
he visits the chapel to pray before this holy picture, before go¬ 
ing on to the Kremlin, and every day hundreds of humbler wor¬ 
shippers visit the shrine with their petitions or thanksgivings. 
A unique custom connected with this “ Iberian Mother ” is that 


162 RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 

of sending the ikon out to visit worshippers who cannot go to 
the church to solicit the special blessings desired. The picture, 
when being sent to visit a sick-bed, a bridal or a house-warming, 
is taken in a carriage of state, and all along its route people 
respectfully bare their heads as it passes by. 

The more or less elegant people who go shopping in the 
Great Bazaar (Stereograph 65) are, we know, not all that dwell in 
Moscow. There are plenty of people in this big city who have 
to count their kopecks carefully, and they cannot afford to 
patronize the shops in the Great Bazaar, where high rents give 
the shop-keepers an excuse for large prices. So it happens that 
there are, even in this same district, many small shops and out- 
of-door booths where goods are cheaper. We will visit one of 
these markets, located, as we see on our Kremlin map, about one- 
third of a mile north-east of the Kremlin. 

68 . The Market in the Kitai Gorod, Moscow. 

Felt hats, rugs, blankets, pots and dishes, all sorts of com¬ 
mon wares are here. No doubt if we should walk a few rods 
down this street, we should find a seller of tall boots, such as 
the lower-class men and boys almost invariably wear. See, the 
men around us here all wear boots, tall and wrinkle-legged, made 
for service if not for beauty. 

Is this a knife and scissors-grinder right here beside us? 
His long apron, with its “ bib ” fastened about his neck, is a sort 
of garment worn by workmen in many different trades. If it 
were winter instead of summer most of these men would be 
wearing sheepskin coats, made with the hair inside and the skin 
outside for the sake of extra warmth. 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 163 

Ordinary working folk, lik? our friends here, make their 
rough clothes do long, hard service and so often have the effect 
of being less neat about their persons than they really are. Here 
in Russia the peculiar vapor baths, which we have imitated under 
the name of “ Russian baths,” are a cheap luxury and well 
patronized by comparatively poor people. 

But the diet of these people is a good deal restricted, both 
by the expense of the best food-stuffs and by the rigid require¬ 
ments of the Russian Church in regard to the observance of her 
innumerable fast-days, when even milk, cheese and eggs are a 
forbidden indulgence. Their main dependence is on fish, cucum¬ 
bers, cabbage and rye-bread, and they drink a good deal of weak 
tea and strong whiskey (vodka). 

In old times, before the days of Peter the Great, it would 
have been an almost unheard-of thing to find grown men here 
in Moscow, or, in fact, anywhere in the empire, with smooth- 
shaven faces. The traditions of early days in Russia were more 
Asiatic than European, and the men took great pride in long 
and bushy beards. But when Peter came home from his travels 
in Holland and England, he brought western styles with him. 
In 1705 he issued a decree that all civil officers should shave 
their beards, and the military governors of the principal towns 
were commanded to sacrifice even their moustaches. For a good 
many years those who clung to this sort of personal decoration 
had to apply and pay for a special license from the government; 
but at the present time, when there are no enforced laws on the 
subject, shaven faces are common everywhere. 

There is one house in this district of the Kitai Gorod that is 
of special interest to travellers in Russia,—the birthplace of the 


164 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


first Romanoff ruler of Russia, Czar Michael, from whom all 
the Czars since his death in 1645 are descended. It is situated 
about one-quarter of a mile east of the Spaski Gate in the Kremlin 
Wall (Mais. de Romanov, on the Kremlin map). 


69. Romanoff House, Moscow, Birthplace of Michael, First 
Czar of the Reigning Dynasty. 

Are you surprised by the modern look of this old mansion? 
After it was sacked by the French, in 1812, it had to be restored 
and, indeed, practically rebuilt so far as interior details are con¬ 
cerned. As it now stands, it is practically a restoration of a 
typical nobleman’s house of the early part of the seventeenth cen¬ 
tury,—wine cellars in the basement, kitchens next above, study 
and reception rooms on the next floor, and bed-chambers at the 
top of the house. 

They were stormy times here in Moscow in the early days 
of the seventeenth century. Ivan the Terrible and his son, 
Theodore I, had died. The reigns of Boris, the brother-in-law 
of Theodore (builder of the bell-tower), and Theodore II, son of 
Boris, had seen ghastly quarrels for the throne, quarrels made 
intensely dramatic by the appearance of two successive claimants, 
each professing to be a certain son of Ivan the Terrible, who really 
had been murdered in childhood. Then the Poles descended on 
suffering Moscow, and the Polish prince Ladislas ruled here 
until the Russians could bear him no longer, and he was 
driven out. 

We have seen (Stereograph 66) a statue raised to com¬ 
memorate the united devotion of arms (Prince Pojarski) and 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 165 

capital (Citizen Minin) that succeeded in driving out the Polish 
governor. It was after all this had happened, when the suc¬ 
cession of the old dynasty was hopelessly lost, that a new dynasty 
was deliberately founded. Special fasting and prayer were recom¬ 
mended for the entire population, even the children, that the na¬ 
tional choice might have the favor of heaven; and an assembled 
convention formally elected young Prince Michael Romanoff, 
the heir of a distinguished family, son of a boyar who had 
become a metropolitan in the Russian Church. 

There is an old story that the Poles sent a deputation to 
murder Michael when he was at Kostroma, and that a Russian 
peasant, by the name of Ivan Sousanin, professing to act as their 
guide, purposely misled them into the deep forest where he 
gladly accepted death at their exasperated hands rather than 
betray his prince. A favorite Russian opera by the celebrated 
Russian Composer Glinka, often given at the large theatres in 
Moscow and St. Petersburg, “ A Life for the Czar,” is based on 
this old story. Whether its details are true or not, Michael him¬ 
self, the boy whose childhood had been spent in this house be¬ 
fore us, lived to rule and rule well, and Nicholas II, who rules 
today, is one. of the same line. 

Swinging now around to the west of the Kremlin, we shall 
see the beautiful Rumiantsof Museum (Musee Rumiantsov 
on the Kremlin map) and catch sight again of a familiar land¬ 
mark. 

70. Rumiantsof Museum, Moscow. 

Another fine Moscow dwelling-house that has been remodeled 
and made into a public building is this former palace of the 


166 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


Pashkof princes, standing here west of the Kremlin, on the side 
opposite the district of the Kitai Gorod. It is a massive, digni¬ 
fied structure, though, so far as architectural style is concerned, 
its Renaissance fagade might be anywhere else in Europe as well 
as in Moscow. They use it now for a public library, archaeolog¬ 
ical museum and picture gallery, and its contents are distinctively 
Russian enough, even if the exterior does have a non-committally 
cosmopolitan air. 

And Moscow as a whole is always Russian; for we cannot 
look far in any direction without seeing the bulbous domes of 
churches. That church just ahead of us now is the same Temple 
of Our Saviour which we saw when we first entered Moscow 
(Stereograph 49). When we looked from the roof of the Temple 
(Stereograph 51), we saw this Library and Museum off towards 
the north-north-east. Now we are looking nearly south-south¬ 
west, towards our earlier point of view. 

There are a great many attractive places in the suburbs of 
Moscow; for the city has a large class of wealthy citizens who 
have both money and time at their disposal, and frequent visits 
of the royal family keep the old capital still distinctly in fashion. 

Let us ride out on the Tverskaia road to the Petrofski Palace. 
This Palace can be found on the general map of Moscow, some 
three or four miles to the north-west of the Kremlin. We can 
go by the democratic street-cars, or, if we wish to do the thing 
more prettily, with a touch of Russian elegance, we can take a 
troika. 

17. Petrofski Imperial Palace, Moscow. 

That is the Palace, but we cannot enter because the public 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 167 

is not admitted. The building was begun in 1775 and finished 
in the time of Paul. To this place Napoleon retired when the 
conflagration drove him out of the Kremlin. One of the finest 
grand-stands in Europe is found here. 

But here we have an excellent opportunity to notice what an 
imposing equipage a troika is. These three handsome grey horses 
are guided, you see, by four reins, two for the middle horse and 
one each for the outsiders. The oddity of the troika does not end 
with its use of that gaily painted douga or arch over the shoulders 
of the middle horse, nor with the gilded harness, decked with 
dangling tassels. Its most striking characteristic is the varied gait 
to which its three steeds are trained. The middle one trots and the 
other two gallop, a combination which is very effective on the fine 
promenades about the Palace and the park near-by. Indeed, the 
neighborhood of the Palace is a favorite place to show off good 
horses. There are races here at intervals all through the sum¬ 
mer, and once in a while a great military review by the Czar, 
like that which we saw at Krasnoe Selo, outside St. Petersburg. 
There are fine horses in Russia. The Orloff breed is famous 
all around the world, and even the common nags, with no ped¬ 
igree to speak off, fly like the wind when urged a little. 

One of the best modern writers of the country, Gogol, pays a 
graceful compliment to this characteristic equipage of his native 
land:— 


“ Troika,—troika-bird,—who invented thee? Thou couldst be born 
only among an audacious people; but art thou not, O Russia, the 
brave troika that none can pass ? Where art thou going? Answer! 
The troika does not answer; it flies onward and clears all obstacles.” 


Before we leave Moscow we shall want to buy one or two 


168 RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 

last souvenirs of the place. You already know the fine shops of 
the Great Bazaar (Stereograph 65), but they say the best place of 
all in which to pick up real treasures, curious pieces of mediaeval 
silver and copper and hammered brass is in the Sunday-morning 
market, over by the Suharof Tower at the north-east of the 
Kremlin. This can be located on the general map of Moscow 
only, about a mile and a half north-east of the Kremlin. The 
number 147 indicates the location of the Suharof Tower. 

72. The Great Sunday Market of Moscow. 

That is the Suharof Tower straight ahead of us. So, you 
see, we are looking west. Peter the Great built it on the site of 
an old city gate, to commemorate the faithfulness of Colonel 
Suharof and the troops under him, who had remained loyal at a 
time when other regiments revolted. Peter was rather more 
given to punishing the bad than thanking the good. We have 
already seen (Stereograph 57) the walls where he stuck the heads 
of the rebels after putting down this same revolt, and it is 
agreeable to know he did a graceful thing in honor of those who 
stood by him. It was his fancy—always full of notions about the 
sea and sea-craft—to treat the tower like a tall mast and hang 
deck-like galleries around it from bottom to top. At present, 
it has indeed a connection with water affairs, but very different 
from any that Peter had in mind, for it has been made into a 
reservoir for the city supply. 

Well, Peter is dead and Colonel Suharof is dead, and so are 
all the Streltsi, both loyal and rebel; but trade goes on forever. 
What a lively scene it is! We saw a few canvas-roofed booths 
like these in a market-place in the Kitai Gorod (Stereograph 68), 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


169 


but not nearly so many nor so fine. Every sort of merchandise 
can be had here at one booth or another, the every-day necessi¬ 
ties of steady-going Moscow citizens, cakes, candies and cheap 
toys for country folks and children, and here and there a real 
treasure for the art-lover, in the shape of a quaint, old bowl or 
beaker, an ancient ikon looking as if St. Luke himself might have 
painted it, or a bit of jewelry, fascinating in design and color. 
If once we go the rounds of all these booths and run the gauntlet 
of the loquacious vendors, we shall surely leave all our money 
behind us! 

Moscow, of all European cities, is the richest in churches. 
It is a church, then, which shall be our last sight before we go 
on to other parts of Russia. One of the most typical is situated 
on the Novinsky Boulevard, about a mile to the west of the 
Kremlin. 

73. Church of the Nativity, Moscow. 

This is, indeed, a characteristic bit of Russia. We have this 
fantastically decorated place of worship, standing for the Russian 
religion, so impressive, with its ceremonial magnificence; we 
have these loaded wagons, standing for the great industrial in¬ 
terests that are so steadily growing greater, and promising better 
prosperity for the whole country; we have the ubiquitous police¬ 
man, standing for the organized government behind and under 
the multiform national life. 

This Church of the Nativity shows us the same bulb-shaped 
domes that we have seen so many times here in* Moscow, but 
their crosses are more elaborately foliated than usual, and how 


170 


RUSSIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 


oddly they are arranged! Three in a row across the end of the 
church farthest from the front entrance,—those must be over the 
part of the sanctuary where the altar stands. And see the taper¬ 
ing steeples on which they rest, steeples like long inverted fun¬ 
nels; are they not almost precisely like the steeples that budded 
all over the roof of the Voznesenski Convent beside the Sacred 
Gate (Stereograph 58) ? Those, however, lacked the blossom of 
the domes. Those arches, too, about the roof and around the 
base of the steeples,—they remind us of similar details in the 
finish of the Cathedral of the Annunciation (Stereograph 63) 
and the Temple of Our Saviour (Stereograph 49). The Russians 
seem to like that ogee arch, with a sharply pinched gable at the 
highest part of the curve. 

“ Mother Moscow,” “ Holy Moscow,” is full of churches. 
Our first sight of the old capital from the Sparrow Hills (Stereo¬ 
graph 47) showed us the old Convent and the Temple of Our 
Saviour. Our last sight shall fittingly be this shrine of the 
Eastern Church. Its ways of worship are strange indeed to our 
western minds, yet not altogether strange. As a good old church 
father observed a long time ago: “The way of truth is one, 
but into it, as a never-failing river, flow streams from all sides.” 


List of Places on the Map u Moscow." 


1. Commercial Academy. E4 

2. Law Archives. B 6 

3. Foreign Ministry Archives. C4 

4. Arsenal. D4 

5. Insane Asylum.G 1, 2 

6 . Children’s Asylum. D7 

7. Pokrov Association (hospital).. G2 

8 . Stock Exchange. D4 

9. Alexander Barracks. D7 

10. Cavalry Barracks. C 6 

11. Gendarme Barracks. . D3 

12. Kremlin Barracks. D4 

13. Khamovnitzv Barracks.BC 6 

14. Krootizkija Barracks.EF 6 

15. Pokrovskija Barracks. E4 

16. Red Barracks. G4 

17. Spasskija Barracks. E3 

18. Chamber of Finance. C4 

19. Chapel of Iberian Virgin. D4 

20. Club of the Nobles. D4 

21. College for Girls. C3 

22. Imperial College (3d). D4 

23. Military Schools (1st and 2d)... G4 

24. Military School (4th). G4 

25. Old Commissariat. E5 

26. New Commissariat. E5 

27. Guardians Council. E4 

28. Ecclesiastical Consistory. D4 

29. Alexeievsky Convent. F 2 

30. Andronovsky “ F4 

31. Danilovsky “ D7 

32. Donskoi “ C7 

33. New Convent of the Saviour... E 6 

34. St. Nicholas Greek Convent- D4 

35. Ivanovsky Convent. E4 

36. Novo-Devitchij “ A 6 

37. Pokrovsky “ F5 

38. Rojdestvenskij “ D3 

39. Simonovskij “ E7 

40. Sretenskij “ D3 

41. Strastnoj “ C3 

42. Tchoodov “ D4 

43. Vosnessenskij “ D4 

44. Vyssoko-Petrovskij Convent... D3 

45. Zaikonospasskij “ ... D4 

46. Zatchatievskij “ ... C5 

47. Znamenskij “ ... D4 ! 

48. Female'(Alex.-Mar.) School- C5 I 


49. Commercial School. C5 

50. School of Arts. E3 

51. Alexander Military School. C4 

52. Nicholas (Fern.) School. E4 

53. Normal School. F3 

54. Technical School. F3 

{See also Colleges, Institutes 
and Lyceums.) 

55. Church Armenian.. E4 

56. “ ArkhangelskvCathedral D4 

57. “ Annunciation. D4 

58. “ Kazanskzja. D4 

59. “ Assumption. D4 

60. “ of St. Vasilij. D4 

61. “ of Ascension. E4 

62. “ of Saviour. C5 

63. “ Reform. E4 

64. “ of St. Luke.D3, 4 

65. “ of St. Michel. F3 

66. “ of Nikita. F3 

67. “ of St. Peter and Paul 

(cath.). D3 

68. Church Lutheran. E4 

69. Depot of Kursk-Nijnij-Novgo- 

rod.EF4 

71. Depot of Riazan. E3 

72. “ of Smolensk.. B3 

73. “ ofjaroslavl.E2, 3 

74. Nicolaevsky Depot. E3 

75. Gostinyj Dvor. D4 

76. Civil Government. C3 

77. General Government.CD4 

78. Office of Imperial Stud. C4 

79. Clinic of Catherine. D3 

80. “ Scheremetievskaja.DE3 

81. “ University. B6 

82. “ Ophthalmic. C3 

83. “ Children. C4 

84. “ Golitzynskaja..... C6 

85. “ Mariinskaja. D2 

86. “ Military ....7. G3 

87. “ Municipal. C6 

88. “ Pavlovskij. D7 

89. “ Preobrajenskaja. G1 

90. “ Vladimirskaja. G2 

91. Hospital Alexeievskij. B7 

92. “ of Catherine. G1 

93. “ Civil. C6 
























































































, 94. Hospital of Foundlings. E4 

95. “ (Branch). F3 

[ 96. “ for Workmen. D3 

97. “ Kyrakinskij. E3 

98. “ Nabilkovskij. E2 

99. “ Preobrajenskij. HI 

100. City Hall. D4 

101. Institute Elizabethian (fem)... F3 

102. “ Konstantinovskij- F3 

103. “ Lazarevskij. D4 

104. Institution (fem.) Alexeiev-CD2 

105. “ “ of Catherine. D2 

106. Ivan the Great. D4 

107. Botanical Garden.DE2 

109. Zoological Garden. B3 

110. Kolymajnyj Dvor. C5 

111. Lobnoe Place. D4 

112. Lyceum of the Czarewitch... .NC5 

113. Provision Store. C5 

114. House of Detention. E3 

115. House of Romanoffs. D4 

116. Widow House. B4 

117. City Riding Academy. D4 

118. Monument of Minin. D4 

119. “ “ Poushkin. C3 

120. Museum of Industrial Arts_ D3 

121. “ Historical. D4 

122. “ Polytechnical. D4 

123. “ Roumiantzovskij. C4 

124. Observatory. B4 


125. 

126. 

127. 

128. 

129. 

130. 

131. 

132. 

133. 

134. 

135. 

136. 

137. 

138. 

139. 

140. 

141. 

142. 


143. 

144. 

145. 

146. 

147. 

148. 

149. 

150. 

151. 

152. 


Palace Alexandrov. C6 

“ Kremlin. D4 

“ Granovitaja Palata.... D4 

“ Lefortovskij.FG3 

“ Nicolaevskij. D4 

Department of Police. C4 

Fire Department. Co 

Red Gates. E3 

General Post Office. E3 

Powder Magazine.EF6, 7 

Central Prison. C2 

Military Prison.. G4 

Seminary. CD3 

Senate. D4 

Philanthropic Society.DE4 

Deaf-Mutes Asylum. C7 

Synod. D4 

Synodal Printing Establish¬ 
ment . D4 

Telegraph Central Office. E3 

Grand Theater. D4 

Lesser Theater. D4 

Theatrical School. D4 

Soukharevskaja Tower. D3 

University. D4 

University Printing Office.... D3 

Villa of Mamantov. B7 

Zapasry Dvor . E3 

Church of the Nativity. B4 




























































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Patented U. S. A ., A ugust 2l y JQuo. Patented Great Britain. March 22 , iqco. 

Patented France. March 2b. IQCo. S. C. D. G. Switzerland, cj^l Patent Nr 21.211. 

Patents applied /or i?i other countries 


EXPLANATIONS OF MAP SYSTEM 

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(2) The n umbers In reo refer to stereographs correspondingly numbered. 

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EXPLANATIONS OF MAP SYSTEM. 


<3' The apex ( ), 

from which we look out, In t 
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nation is designated bv the number of the stere 






























































































































































































































New York, Dec* 12th, 1901. 

It does not seem possible to conceive a 
better substitute for an actual journey through 
Palestine than that devised by Messrs* Under¬ 
wood & Underwood. The maps and de¬ 
scriptions are such an excellent guide, and 
the views as seen through the stereoscope 
are so realistic, that one who will follow the 
directions given, and who has the patience 
to look intently upon the scene before him, 
and with full consciousness of its import, 
may feel that he is actually standing upon 
the sacred hills or the footpaths over which 
the Saviour trod, and gazing upon real 
scenes illuminated with eternal significance. 

Very truly yours, 

(Signed) SAMUEL WEIR, Ph* D. 

(Formerly Professor of Philosophy in the School of Pedagogy, 
New York University,) 


y*'/ 


5 



1 COPY DEI. TO CAT PIV. 
MAY 5 1902 


IBRORY OF congress 


MAY 1 


? 1902 


_ 



"0" 005 811 _ 

UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO, 

Toronto, Canada. 


There is, indeed, nothing; more appropriate 
for gfiving; object lessons in geography, archae¬ 
ology* history of arts, etc., than stereoscopic 
photo graphs. One look throw g;h the stereo¬ 
scope at the photographs of an Alpine glacier, 
the bas-reliefs of an ancient Egyptian Temple, 
or the ruins of Pompeii, teaches more than 
hours spent in hearing; or reading; descriptions. 
I believe that to the stereoscopic photograph 
belongs a future, not only for educational but 
also for scientific purposes. There is no sim¬ 
pler and better means of keeping; accurate 
record of a situation (scenery, apparatus, etc.) 
than a stereoscopic photograph, and indeed the 
stereoscopic camera has been employed in this 
way in my laboratory for some time. 

(Signed) A. KIRCHMANN, Ph. D., 

(Director Psychological Department.) 









